where ice cream was a 30 minute bike ride, a 1 hour bus ride, an overnight stop, a 6 hour bus ride, a 20 minute taxi ride, and finally a 15 minute cab ride away.
and even then, with your tongue that has tasted gelato from italy and ice cream from france – it was below your ice cream standards.
but it still hit the spot. in mali, standards are thrown out. what you have is what you have. ice cream is ice cream. you either eat it or you don’t.
but then you unexpectedly found yourself back in france. choices flooded you. and every time you were at a restaurant and ordering dessert, your eyes would stay hovered over the word glace. ice cream is all you wanted now that you had practically unlimited access.
and back it texas, it wasn’t the oven you ran to. it was your ice cream machine.
so shall we churn?
heat 1 cup milk with the cocoa powder stirred in until it begins to boil, then remove from heat and stir in the chocolate until it is completely melted. set aside.
heat the other 1 cup milk with sugar, then temper the egg yolks by pouring a small bit of the warmed milk and sugar into the yolks, then pour the yolks back into the milk and sugar mixture. continue to heat, never to a boil, until it is thick enough to coat your spatula.
strain the milk-sugar-yolk mixture into the chocolate mixture, mix well, then let it cool. refrigerate overnight. or until sufficiently cool. then churn this mixture and freeze.
source: room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 125
vanilla ice cream
heat the milk, salt, sugar, and scraped vanilla bean seeds together until simmering. remove from heat.
temper the yolks by adding a small amount of the above mixture until the yolks are warm to the touch. then pour the yolks back into the mixture.
cook until it is thick enough to coat a spatula. then strain it into the heavy cream and add the vanilla extract. let cool, then chill in the refrigerator.
once chilled, churn and freeze.
source: room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 121
heat the milk, sugar, vanilla bean seeds, dried coconut, and salt together. let steep, covered, for about one hour.
strain and let cool. discard the coconut, squeezing it to save any extra flavor. chill and refrigerate.
before churning, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold into the chilled mixture. then churn and freeze.
source: room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 118
your basic recipe is:
cooked milk, sugar, vanilla + flavors (chocolate, nuts, etc) + tempered yolks
a bowl of heavy cream
chilled overnight. churned. frozen. then eaten.
with different ratios, of course. but that’s the basic technique that you’ve decided to stick to.
turn half of the pistachios and 1/4 cup of the sugar into a paste using a food processor. chop the remaining nuts with a knife.
heat the rest of the sugar, milk, and pistachio paste together until simmering.
temper the yolks by pouring a small amount of the warm mixture into the yolks, stirring the yolks, and when warm to the touch, pour back into the main mixture.
heat the mixture until thick enough to coat the back of a spatula.
strain into the heavy cream and vanilla extract. let cool, then chill. once chilled, churn and add in the rest of the chopped pistachios once you see that the gelato is forming.
source: modified from frozen desserts by melanie barnard, p. 69
puree the mangoes with the sugar and liqueur.
then you made one more – but no photo yet. you see, all the above ice creams were made about one month ago. but then tonight as you wrote this, you started feeling guilty about how every recipe was lifted from books. so you decided to do an improvised experiment in the kitchen.
heat the milk, vanilla seeds, sugar, and salt together.
then – tomorrow, as you churn it, you’ll add in the strawberries and the cookies.
already you sense that there are not enough yolks, too much milk that isn’t whole, cookies that are too absorbent, and other things – but hey, you were just curious to see how a 1:1 cream:milk ratio would turn out.
after this last experiment, the ice cream machine will be put back in storage. it’ll be another year before you see it again. but these two months in texas more than satisfied your craving of making and eating ice cream.