21 August 2012

ice creams for a short texas summer

ticecream01  it all started in mali.

where ice cream was a 30 minute bike ride, a 1 hour bus ride, an overnight stop, a 6 hour bus ride, a 20 minute taxi ride, and finally a 15 minute cab ride away.

and even then, with your tongue that has tasted gelato from italy and ice cream from france – it was below your ice cream standards.

but it still hit the spot. in mali, standards are thrown out. what you have is what you have. ice cream is ice cream. you either eat it or you don’t.

but then you unexpectedly found yourself back in france. choices flooded you. and every time you were at a restaurant and ordering dessert, your eyes would stay hovered over the word glace. ice cream is all you wanted now that you had practically unlimited access.

and back it texas, it wasn’t the oven you ran to. it was your ice cream machine.

so shall we churn?

chocolate gelato

1/2 cup cocoa powder

2 cups milk

5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

3/4 cup sugar

4 egg yolks

heat 1 cup milk with the cocoa powder stirred in until it begins to boil, then remove from heat and stir in the chocolate until it is completely melted. set aside.

heat the other 1 cup milk with sugar, then temper the egg yolks by pouring a small bit of the warmed milk and sugar into the yolks, then pour the yolks back into the milk and sugar mixture. continue to heat, never to a boil, until it is thick enough to coat your spatula.

strain the milk-sugar-yolk mixture into the chocolate mixture, mix well, then let it cool. refrigerate overnight. or until sufficiently cool. then churn this mixture and freeze.

source:  room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 125

ticecream02

vanilla ice cream

1 cup milk

pinch of salt

3/4 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean

5 egg yolks

2 cups heavy cream

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

heat the milk, salt, sugar, and scraped vanilla bean seeds together until simmering. remove from heat.

temper the yolks by adding a small amount of the above mixture until the yolks are warm to the touch. then pour the yolks back into the mixture.

cook until it is thick enough to coat a spatula. then strain it into the heavy cream and add the vanilla extract. let cool, then chill in the refrigerator.

once chilled, churn and freeze.

source: room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 121

ticecream03  from all this ice cream and gelato making, there are a lot of unused egg whites. what to do? meringues? macarons? no, you’re still craving something frozen. sherbets it is.

ticecream04

coconut sherbet

4 cups milk

1 cup sugar

1/4 vanilla bean

1 1/4 cups unsweetened dried coconut, toasted

pinch of salt

3 egg whites

heat the milk, sugar, vanilla bean seeds, dried coconut, and salt together. let steep, covered, for about one hour.

strain and let cool. discard the coconut, squeezing it to save any extra flavor. chill and refrigerate.

before churning, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold into the chilled mixture. then churn and freeze.

source: room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 118

ticecream05 after a while, ice cream making becomes routine. you stop following the directions in a book and just glance at the ingredients for ideas.

your basic recipe is:

cooked milk, sugar, vanilla + flavors (chocolate, nuts, etc) + tempered yolks

strained into

a bowl of heavy cream

chilled overnight. churned. frozen. then eaten.

with different ratios, of course. but that’s the basic technique that you’ve decided to stick to.

ticecream06

pistachio gelato

1 1/2 cups (185 g) pistachios
3/4 cup (185 g) sugar
2 cups (500ml) milk
6 egg yolks
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup (250ml) heavy cream

turn half of the pistachios and 1/4 cup of the sugar into a paste using a food processor. chop the remaining nuts with a knife.

heat the rest of the sugar, milk, and pistachio paste together until simmering.

temper the yolks by pouring a small amount of the warm mixture into the yolks, stirring the yolks, and when warm to the touch, pour back into the main mixture.

heat the mixture until thick enough to coat the back of a spatula.

strain into the heavy cream and vanilla extract. let cool, then chill. once chilled, churn and add in the rest of the chopped pistachios once you see that the gelato is forming.

and freeze.

source: modified from frozen desserts by melanie barnard, p. 69

ticecream07 originally a recipe for strawberry-mango sorbet, but you had lots of mangos and no strawberries. also no rum, but you did have peach liqueur. a few changes, but just as tasty.

ticecream08

mango sorbet

2 medium mangoes, peeled and diced
10 tbs sugar
1 1/2 tsp peach liqueur

puree the mangoes with the sugar and liqueur.
chill, then churn

source: modified from room for dessert by david lebovitz, p. 109

then you made one more – but no photo yet. you see, all the above ice creams were made about one month ago. but then tonight as you wrote this, you started feeling guilty about how every recipe was lifted from books. so you decided to do an improvised experiment in the kitchen.

the experiment

2 cups milk (2% is what you found)
1 vanilla bean
1 cup sugar
pinch of salt
3 yolks
2 cups cream
fresh strawberries, chopped
lady finger cookies

heat the milk, vanilla seeds, sugar, and salt together.
temper the yolks in.
strain into the cream.

chill.

then – tomorrow, as you churn it, you’ll add in the strawberries and the cookies.

already you sense that there are not enough yolks, too much milk that isn’t whole, cookies that are too absorbent, and other things – but hey, you were just curious to see how a 1:1 cream:milk ratio would turn out.

after this last experiment, the ice cream machine will be put back in storage. it’ll be another year before you see it again. but these two months in texas more than satisfied your craving of making and eating ice cream.

3 comments:

Rosa's Yummy Yums said...

Delicious and so refreshing!

I'd love to make ice cream, but my freezer is chock-a-block full

Cheers,

Rosa

Kelly Rae said...

The pistachio ice cream looks amazing! I want to make some now :-)

Catherine Goron said...

Just ran into your lovely blog!... and the photos of pistachio gelato and mango had me drooling. Merci for sharing the recipes :)